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Part 2: Wave Terms and Calculations Wind transfers energy into water to form "wind waves." Winds with greater speeds than 3 km/hr cause small wavelets to appear. Wind waves are referred to as orbital waves, because water molecules move in a circular fashion as the energy moves through the water. Waves have several features: crests, troughs, wavelength (the distance between successive crests), wave height (distance from trough to crest) and wave base (a depth equal to % wavelength). The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a stationary spot. The frequency of a wave is how many, or what portion, travel by a stationary spot every one second. The unit for frequency is hertz, or $¹. Waves in water greater than % their wavelength are called "deep water waves." The speed (celerity) of a deep water wave is wavelength / period (cm/s or m/s). If it's not a deep water wave velocity cannot be calculated, because it is slowing down. When these waves reach a water depth of less than their wavelength their bases interact with the sea floor and begin to slow down. As the waves slow their wavelengths decrease and wave heights increase. At a depth of 1/20th their wavelength they crash. Motion of Individual Water Molecules Direction of Waves Figure 1 Basic form of a wind wave 1) If the wavelength of a wave if 30 meters, what is wave base? 2) If 20 waves pass by a stationary spot in 60 seconds, what is the "period" of the waves? 3) If 60 wave crests go by a stationary buoy in 60 seconds, what is the frequency of the wave in hertz. 4) For #2 above, what is the frequency of that wave? Shore 5) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 2 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 6) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 10 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 7) What is the celerity of the wave in question #2 if the wavelength is 6 meters?

Part 2: Wave Terms and Calculations Wind transfers energy into water to form "wind waves." Winds with greater speeds than 3 km/hr cause small wavelets to appear. Wind waves are referred to as orbital waves, because water molecules move in a circular fashion as the energy moves through the water. Waves have several features: crests, troughs, wavelength (the distance between successive crests), wave height (distance from trough to crest) and wave base (a depth equal to % wavelength). The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a stationary spot. The frequency of a wave is how many, or what portion, travel by a stationary spot every one second. The unit for frequency is hertz, or $¹. Waves in water greater than % their wavelength are called "deep water waves." The speed (celerity) of a deep water wave is wavelength / period (cm/s or m/s). If it's not a deep water wave velocity cannot be calculated, because it is slowing down. When these waves reach a water depth of less than their wavelength their bases interact with the sea floor and begin to slow down. As the waves slow their wavelengths decrease and wave heights increase. At a depth of 1/20th their wavelength they crash. Motion of Individual Water Molecules Direction of Waves Figure 1 Basic form of a wind wave 1) If the wavelength of a wave if 30 meters, what is wave base? 2) If 20 waves pass by a stationary spot in 60 seconds, what is the "period" of the waves? 3) If 60 wave crests go by a stationary buoy in 60 seconds, what is the frequency of the wave in hertz. 4) For #2 above, what is the frequency of that wave? Shore 5) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 2 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 6) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 10 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 7) What is the celerity of the wave in question #2 if the wavelength is 6 meters?

Applications and Investigations in Earth Science (9th Edition)
Applications and Investigations in Earth Science (9th Edition)
9th Edition
ISBN:9780134746241
Author:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa
Publisher:Edward J. Tarbuck, Frederick K. Lutgens, Dennis G. Tasa
Chapter1: The Study Of Minerals
Section: Chapter Questions
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Part 2: Wave Terms and Calculations Wind transfers energy into water to form "wind waves." Winds with greater speeds than 3 km/hr cause small wavelets to appear. Wind waves are referred to as orbital waves, because water molecules move in a circular fashion as the energy moves through the water. Waves have several features: crests, troughs, wavelength (the distance between successive crests), wave height (distance from trough to crest) and wave base (a depth equal to ½ wavelength). The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a stationary spot. The frequency of a wave is how many, or what portion, travel by a stationary spot every one second. The unit for frequency is hertz, or S¹. Waves in water greater than 7/2 their wavelength are called "deep water waves." The speed (celerity) of a deep water wave is wavelength / period (cm/s or m/s). If it's not a deep water wave velocity cannot be calculated, because it is slowing down. When these waves reach a water depth of less than ½ their wavelength their bases interact with the sea floor and begin to slow down. As the waves slow their wavelengths decrease and wave heights increase. At a depth of 1/20th their wavelength they crash. Occol Motion of Individual Water Molecules Occa Occol Oooo Direction of Waves oooo Figure 1 Basic form of a wind wave 1) If the wavelength of a wave if 30 meters, what is wave base? 2) If 20 waves pass by a stationary spot in 60 seconds, what is the "period" of the waves? 4) For #2 above, what is the frequency of that wave? 3) If 60 wave crests go by a stationary buoy in 60 seconds, what is the frequency of the wave in hertz. Shore 5) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 2 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 6) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 10 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 7) What is the celerity of the wave in question #2 if the wavelength is 6 meters?
Transcribed Image Text:Part 2: Wave Terms and Calculations Wind transfers energy into water to form "wind waves." Winds with greater speeds than 3 km/hr cause small wavelets to appear. Wind waves are referred to as orbital waves, because water molecules move in a circular fashion as the energy moves through the water. Waves have several features: crests, troughs, wavelength (the distance between successive crests), wave height (distance from trough to crest) and wave base (a depth equal to ½ wavelength). The period of a wave is the time it takes for one wavelength to pass a stationary spot. The frequency of a wave is how many, or what portion, travel by a stationary spot every one second. The unit for frequency is hertz, or S¹. Waves in water greater than 7/2 their wavelength are called "deep water waves." The speed (celerity) of a deep water wave is wavelength / period (cm/s or m/s). If it's not a deep water wave velocity cannot be calculated, because it is slowing down. When these waves reach a water depth of less than ½ their wavelength their bases interact with the sea floor and begin to slow down. As the waves slow their wavelengths decrease and wave heights increase. At a depth of 1/20th their wavelength they crash. Occol Motion of Individual Water Molecules Occa Occol Oooo Direction of Waves oooo Figure 1 Basic form of a wind wave 1) If the wavelength of a wave if 30 meters, what is wave base? 2) If 20 waves pass by a stationary spot in 60 seconds, what is the "period" of the waves? 4) For #2 above, what is the frequency of that wave? 3) If 60 wave crests go by a stationary buoy in 60 seconds, what is the frequency of the wave in hertz. Shore 5) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 2 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 6) What is the frequency of a wave with a period of 10 seconds (what fraction of the wave goes by each second?)? 7) What is the celerity of the wave in question #2 if the wavelength is 6 meters?
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